Hi - it is wonderful for me to hear that people are actually reading these things..i sometimes feel that i am writing away happily into cyberspace like a "hello wall, it is me again, howare ya?"!! You know when you have those days that you just know you will look back for the rest of your life and remember..well that was me yesterday..
It kind of started out with a bit of a logistics misunderstanding, but ended up with a great stone sculptor Tawanda and i heading out of Harare on a big old rickity bus to what was described to me an ancient 'village, and caves, with bushmen paintings, ceremonies, drums, etc..' in the Dombosuawa area of Zim, ask me whether i was thrilled...
After an hour of tossing and lurching through countryside, flat, red soil, bricks are abundant here, we stopped at a sort of parking place, filled with old pick up trucks, a centre for food shopping, people milling around...jumped into the front of a blue pickup, the back jam filled with guys comuting from jobs in Harare, five guys bending into the hood, pushing the old jalopy backwards its driver next to me, trying to get it started, and off we went...
Another hour through dusty red roads, gutted, rutted, rocks, holes, past round concrete huts with thatched roofs, little clusters of these homes, people carrying packages on their heads, women in bright dresses, skirts, even out here in remote rural Africa..groups of schoolkids in uniforms straggling home sharing the roadside with cows, goats, and us..slowly making our way to finally the village, which is a compound of one huge family, called Chitauro which means 'place of communication', the patriarch Dominique who Tawanda had told me about, greeting us, hugely friendly, warm, laughing, lovely...the husband of five wives, father of 36..the 5th wife, 23, with 6 kids, one girl, five boys taking me on a tour to the round kitchens of all the wives, clean, a fire area in the middle, thatched roof, brightly coloured dishes, the sleeping area in the next small hut, clothes hanging abundantly from the ceiling, and on to the spirit house, where i am told the ceremonies are held, we take off our shoes, watch, camera and head inside, concrete floor, again the thatched high pointed ceiling...a raised stage at the front to hold the spirits, three ratan mats, one at the front for Dominique who is the spirit medium, and one on each side, for the women, and men..drums in the corner...a place with energy which felt hugely spiritual..awesome..Tawanda told me the spirits come in the early morning and late evening...resting during the day..there are five houses on the compound where the seven spirits live..a library holding a far better selection of books than most (in Harare the books range from Christian religious to self help)..a place where guests can stay, all very primitive...met everyone, the wives, many kids, a grandson with the same name Tawanda who makes mbiras which are small hand help musical instruments with prong like metal pieces which you fling with your thumb and first finger hard, making fabulous music...
we have been invited back next Friday night after my workshop...
there will be a ceremony late that night in the spirit house..
i will sleep there on the floor to cleanse myself, in the early morning there will be a ceremony to receive the spirits of my ancestors...
To be continued, that story, in a week from now..
and on to the caves...
massive high slabs of rock covered in green and turquoise liechen...we climb up and up following the arrows...it is almost sunset, the wind blowing softly, a warm almost evening...we climb, i am breathless, with the vista of miles of rock and hills and mountains...huge rocks set upon each other...i have forgotten the name for this, but God made...heavenly sent, this was a space in time..no one there but the two of us and the spirits of rock, sky and ancient times. what more to say.
we couldnt' find the caves.
we are coming back next weekend..on Sunday after the ceremonies...dying to see the drawings inside, by bushmen, maybe 1500 years ago...
A day of legends, stories, philosophies, ideas, politics..
Made a decision on the way home..I am canceling my weekend trip to Victoria Falls..the money not spent will go to the twins..I wrote about. Have seen pics of the falls, have been to Niagara a million times..this one is for me..
thanks for listening, hugs and have a great weekend...xL
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52 comments:
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